
Photo: David Kernan · CC BY 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
City Guide
Tokyo is enormous, and that's the whole problem. Here's how to break it into neighborhoods you'll actually remember, plus when to go and how to find what's on.
First-time visitors tend to make the same mistake in Tokyo: they try to see all of it. You can't. Tokyo is a cluster of a dozen cities wearing one name, and the trick is to pick your neighborhoods and let each one do its thing. Three or four neighborhoods, done properly, beats a frantic week of train-hopping.
Here's the cheat sheet we give friends: where to go for what, when the city is at its best, and how to fill your evenings once the temples close. Because Tokyo after dark is half the trip, and it's the half most visitors under-plan.
This is the Tokyo from the movies. Shibuya Crossing at rush hour is genuinely staggering, hundreds of people moving in perfect choreography, and it's worth seeing once even though you'll feel like a tourist doing it. Shinjuku after dark is denser and stranger: tiny bars stacked six floors high, neon reflecting off wet pavement, the famous Godzilla head peering over the rooftops.

Photo: Akonnchiroll · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons
Go in the evening, when both neighborhoods switch on. Eat before you go bar-hopping; the little izakayas under the train tracks are the real thing, not a theme park version of it.
For the Tokyo that existed before the neon, head east to Asakusa. Sensō-ji, the city's oldest temple, anchors a neighborhood of old shopping streets, rickshaws, and snack stalls selling things on sticks. It gets busy by midday, so go early: the temple at eight in the morning, before the crowds, is one of the calmest places in the city.

Photo: Akonnchiroll · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
From Asakusa it's a short hop to Ueno's museums or a river cruise down the Sumida. This whole east side of the city runs at a slower, older rhythm, and it's the perfect counterweight to a Shinjuku night.
Spring for the cherry blossoms is famous and priced accordingly. Autumn is the sleeper pick: comfortable temperatures, clear skies, and the city's event calendar in full swing. Summer is hot and humid; winter is crisp, cheap, and underrated.

Photo: Morio · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Whatever season you pick, don't let your evenings go to waste. Tokyo's live houses, clubs, and festivals run year-round, and the best stuff is rarely in English-language guidebooks. Check our Tokyo pages for what's actually on during your dates: concerts, exhibitions, festivals, and the weekend picks once you're in town.
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